 |
||||||||||||||||||
 |
||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||
 |
||||||||||||||||||
|
Frequently Asked Questions
This website is intended as a tool to meet that objective. Its photographs and descriptions are intended as an honest perspective of what I offer. I encourage you to peruse the following frequently-asked questions as well before placing an order. If you have any additional questions or are unclear regarding any of the details of your considered purchase, please ask me before you place an order. I am more than happy to be of assistance. Regards, Brian Ober Assembly
of tables Q: Do you build custom sizes or designs? I'm sorry, I do not. My company is designed as a specific product-based business. I employ designs and systems (i.e. jigs, methodology, etc.) which have been developed and refined over a period of years which apply specifically to the relatively few products I offer. If I were to set out to build similarly complex products from scratch (custom building)— sourcing materials, designing and redesigning, working without systems—the end product would be, quite frankly, prohibitively expensive and most likely of lesser quality. Alternatively, I choose to focus on a relatively narrow catalog and offer products based on the resulting expertise and economy of scale. Hopefully, you will find one of my offerings meets your particular requirements. There are obviously plenty of other woodworkers and manufacturers offering a host of products and services.
Q: Do you sell your products wholesale or offer volume discounts? No. I choose to operate on a limited scale. Having no employees, the number of pieces I build is fixed by the number of hours I personally work. Therefore, I must make a certain profit on each piece in order to remain viable. A direct sales model is really my only practical option to accomplish this.
Q: What maintenance is required for your tables? The short answer is none. The longer answer is that it is more a matter of preference; that is, balancing your concerns for aesthetics (color) and long-term preservation (beyond the wood's naturally long lifespan) with your ability or desire to spend time applying finishes. Many people simply find it impractical to repetitively apply finishes to outdoor wood furniture. All unfinished wood, if left exposed to the elements, will begin the process of oxidizing, slowly developing a silvery-gray patina over a period of seasons. Many people love this aged appearance of bare weathered wood and feel it adds authenticity or informality to an historical setting. Others feel a desire to preserve an element of the original pigmentation of the wood. This will require some effort. In my own courtyard, which is primarily a shaded area, I follow a philosophy of partial preservation. I basically let the table weather but occasionally re-apply pure tung oil as my schedule allows (sometimes to the entire table, sometimes to just the top). The application of a natural penetrating oil is relatively easy and I actually enjoy the process. I feel the oil adds a measure of vitality to the wood and is also beneficial in cleaning off foodstuffs that inevitably end up on the tabletop. I look at the aging of the wood as almost a living, continual process—oiling, weathering, using, re-oiling—one in which a piece of furniture grows or develops additional charm and character as it matures. If you would like to more proactively preserve the appearance of your table, I recommend a schedule of cleaning and several coats of tung oil applied every year or two. I supply a "care kit" with each table I ship, which consists of the products and instructions needed to get started with applying oil to your table should you choose to do so. Remember, as with your car
or anything that sits outside, many times what might be construed
as “unsightly” is simply the result of plain dirt—and
can be remedied with basic cleaning.
Q: What maintenance is required for your chairs? The chairs I sell are all factory-coated with a 100% polyester powder-coating (oven-baked) which is considered to be more durable than conventional, spray-applied paint. It should simply be wiped clean from time to time using water and a non-abrasive cleaner. Over time however, especially where the finish may become scratched or chipped (exposing bare metal), there may develop rust spots which should be touched up. Also, the lighter the color of finish, the more likely that small rust spots will show through on continued exposure to the elements. Touch-up paint in the colors that I offer is available upon request. Ultimately, the longevity of paint finishes will always be dependent upon the harshness of the climate (exposure to salt water, extreme temperature and UV light, etc.). When required, the chairs may be repainted (directly over the factory finish) using a brush-on or spray-type rust-inhibiting metal paint (e.g. Rust-Oleum).
Q: Can I remove a gray patina after it has developed? Yes, there are several products on the market that allow for the removal of the outer layer of oxidized wood. One product I have used successfully is The Flood Company's "Dekswood Deck Cleaner & Brightener". I would not recommend the use of pressure washers on my furniture.
Q: Do you offer other finish options for your tables? I'm sorry, I do not. The pigmented tung oil I use was developed and refined over a long period of time (mainly by trial and error) to create the best possible overall appearance for my tables. It contains only pigment and pure tung oil, it is not a diluted "tung-oil finish" or "teak oil". Tung oil, when used as a penetrating oil creates a very understated look, not at all like a varnish, which resides on the surface and encapsulates the wood. The color of my finish strikes a very nice balance, which complements a broad range of color palettes and woods. It mutes the inherent reddish nature of mahogany (which some people do find a bit overbearing), while enhancing its cooler nutty brown elements. I use this finish on all the tables I stock. I do offer my tables unfinished if you would like to formulate or use your own varnish, stain, or paint.
Q: Do you offer your tables unfinished? Yes. This is the only "customization" that I will supply if requested. There are some things to remember however if you are considering this option: 1. I do not stock these items
and they therefore may take longer to supply.
Q: Can your tables be painted? Yes. Unlike teak, which does not bond well with finishes, mahogany accepts stains and paints quite well. This flexibility is one of the many reasons I decided to use mahogany for my tables—as paint can be a wonderful option in some historical settings or later on in the life of wooden garden furniture. If you want to paint your table initially, I would recommend either purchasing an unfinished table or waiting for a year or so for the tung oil that was originally applied to partially wear off. Then moderately sand the wood and apply the paint of your choice.
Q: How should I keep my furniture clean? For tables or chairs, it is simply a matter of using warm water and wiping over the pieces, much as you would with any indoor dining furniture. For more serious dirt or foodstuffs, use hot water with some dishwashing liquid or laundry detergent. I wipe my tabletop down every time I use it for dining and try to go over it every few days so it doesn't get too dirty. If you don't use your furniture for a long time, a garden hose and gentle scrubbing brush can always be employed. Think of it like washing your car.
Q: What assembly is required for your tables? I designed my tables with removable legs for several reasons: 1. Ease and safety in shipping.
Tables packed flat have lower shipping costs and provide maximum
protection from damage. In addition, I feel the bronze pins (carriage bolts) which secure the legs to the top/apron adds a distinctive and decorative visual element to the overall design. Tables are shipped with the top fully assembled and four legs. Each leg needs to be secured to the top assembly with four carriage bolts and one lag screw. Take a look underneath one of my tables. I fully assemble each table in my workshop and then remove and mark each leg before shipping. Consequently, all holes should line up perfectly when reassembled in its final location. I would assess reassembling my tables as a moderately easy process. In all honesty, perhaps harder than something my mother would be comfortable with, but well within the skillset of a moderately handy man or woman. I include detailed instructions outlining everything I can think of about reassembling. Tools required are a proper sized wrench (which I include) and a hammer. If you reside within the range which allows for regional delivery, I will either assemble the table on location or bring it to you fully assembled in my truck. Also, if you pick up your table at my workshop, I will pre-assemble it if you like. Some furniture movers offer furniture assembly as part of their services, of which I can inquire if you request. Also, shipping your table fully assembled is an option, which can be quoted if you desire—it is more expensive because of the additional space it requires in the moving van.
Q:
What grade of mahogany is used in your tables? I use lumber graded as FAS (First and Seconds) under National Hardwood Lumber Association rules. FAS is considered the top grade under NHLA rules. For the legs and outward-facing portions of the top planks and aprons, I cut out any large knots, splits, and wane. Some occasional, minor defects that may be visible include: Small (less than 1/2"),
sound knots I fill any voids associated with the above with a mix of epoxy and mahogany sawdust and plane flush. These fillings will appear slightly darker than the surrounding wood. Also keep in mind that the wood contains some distressing marks which are intentionally placed. Overall, the appearance of the wood is very nice. I spend a lot of time turning and analyzing the lumber in order to show the best faces, generally placing priority on the tabletop planks. Grain patterns will vary among the different parts of the table. This is largely dictated by the method the individual log was sawn at the mill (e.g. flat cut, quartersawn, etc). You may see grain patterns ranging from plain (cathedral), straight, ribbon-striped to crotch. I feel the differing grains adds character and visual interest. Remember, while my tables certainly share similarities to interior "fine furniture"—in aspects of joinery and workmanship—they are not intended to do so in the sense of perfectly smooth and flawless wood surfaces. Take a close look at the photographs contained on this site to get a better idea of the lumber's final appearance. Also, take a look at these descriptive photographs.
Q: Can I obtain a finished mahogany sample? Yes. I can send a small sample finished with my pigmented tung oil upon request.
Q: Do you sell umbrellas? Can you recommend specific umbrellas? No, I do not sell umbrellas. Perhaps in the future I may but not currently. I recognize two different strategies with regard to purchasing umbrellas. Umbrellas have a tendency to take more than their fair share of wear (wind damage, UV light exposure, birds, tree sap, etc). Therefore, sometimes it can make sense to simply purchase an attractive inexpensive market umbrella, be moderately mindful about it, then dispose of it after a few seasons and purchase a new one. The investment is small up front (depending upon the style and size)—which is nice sometimes when considering the larger investment of a dining set (I wouldn't consider a "disposable" dining set as a very viable option!). There are several good sources for "disposable" umbrellas. Have a look at Pottery Barn, Plow & Hearth, Crate & Barrell, or Restoration Hardware. Locally, visit your home or garden center. I own several inexpensive market umbrellas that I alternate in my own garden. I try to bring them in—or at least put them down—during inclement weather and have ususally found they are serviceable for at least 5 years before I must replace them. The other strategy is to buy nice, high-quality umbrellas, be perhaps a little more careful with them, and keep them for longer. There are several companies that make quality umbrellas, two of them are Santa Barbara Designs and American Holtzkraft.
Q: What are my umbrella hole options? All my tables come with a umbrella hole bored in the center plank covered with a recessed solid brass plate. This plate is available in three styles; one with a 1 11/16" hole, one with a 2 1/8" hole and one with no hole. See photos of different umbrella plates. All plates have the same vine and flora engraving and the Pastoral 1874 identification markings. Currently, I do not have an engraved plate with a hole larger than 2 1/8". This may be of some consideration when purchasing an umbrella for use with my tables. Be aware that there are several larger umbrellas on the market which have poles of 2 1/4", 2 3/8", and even 2 1/2". I can provide a brass plate with a larger hole—without the engraved artwork—to accept the larger poles. In the future, I may consider designing (it would entail different artwork) and manufacturing an engraved plate with a larger hole. If this happens, I would be happy to exchange the new plate for any non-engraved plates. I would also be happy to exchange plates, if at some point, an umbrella change requires a different size.
Q: Should I store my furniture during the winter? For chairs, I do think dry storage is a good idea if you have a place for them, but it certainly is not necessary. Some of the chairs I sell have a more durable finish than others so take that into consideration. In addition, if you happen to have a good place to store your table as well, there's certainly nothing wrong with that either. In theory, something kept inside for a period of time will last that much longer. That said, however, I certainly wouldn't worry about leaving it out. After all, it is designed to stay outdoors in all weather. I usually keep my table uncovered and out all winter simply because I don't have a good location to store it, plus I don't care for the look of covers. I store most of my chairs in various garden sheds. I also have some painted steel chairs that do stay out year-round without problem. Furniture coverings are beneficial if you buy the right one. Avoid using plastic, vinyl or polyester based coverings even if they have "vents". A Poor cover is probably worse than no cover at all because of its tendency to trap in moisture. By far the best line of covers I am aware of is KoverRoos. They make Tyvek-based covers, which are both waterproof and breathable. Their more expensive line even comes in choices of colors which help ease aesthetic concerns. They also make custom sizes (which I would recommend) for a perfect fit, and you can order direct from them.
Q: Can I use your tables indoors? Yes, but be aware that the top planks are spaced slightly apart which may not be desirable considering that it may allow crumbs or spills to pass through. Solid umbrella plates are available for such applications.
Q: What if my table is damaged in shipping? While I am careful to see that furniture is carefully wrapped when it leaves the shop, accidents of various sorts are not impossible enroute to your house. When your piece of furniture arrives, please inspect it. If you find any damage, tell the driver and make a note on the delivery receipt describing the damages. If it is severe or structural, refuse the delivery. The carrier will return it and I will replace it. If the damage is superficial or cosmetic, I can usually guide you through how to correct the problem. In any event, note all damage on the delivery receipt and contact me.
Q: What if my chairs are damaged in shipping? This comes from my importer, who will be the one shipping directly to you:
Q: What is your warranty for tables? I would like to preface my warranty policy by stressing the obvious nature of garden furniture; that it is furniture intended to be placed outside, and as such, be subject to the effects of weathering. These effects over time would include such natural changes as oxidation (graying), movement (expansion, contraction, minor bowing), surface checking or crazing, small cracks in the endgrain, lifting of grain, discolorations, water spots, etc.. After scaring you with this litany, let me assure you that none of these events has any effect on the stability or life of the furniture whatsoever. In fact, most people agree that this aging process is expected and can actually add much character to the furniture. It is part of what separates wood garden furniture from resin or aluminum designs. All that said, I offer a three year warranty against defects in workmanship and materials for table components (e.g., a leg, bolt, apron, strut, etc.). This warranty is limited to the replacement of the damaged components only, not the replacement of the entire table. "Defects" would be considered as imperfections which impair the utility of the table. It would not apply to normal wear, abuse, or deterioration of the product, or to damage resulting from natural causes (e.g., floods, storms, fire, etc.). Like a traditionally fitted timber-framed structure, all components in my tables are fastened by mechanical means (i.e. joints with pins, bolts, screws, etc.). By design, no fittings are glued in place, which means that all parts are removable and replaceable (though I admit, some are harder to get at than others!). No onsite disassembly or assembly labor in included in this warranty. I am willing to provide replacement labor in my workshop however, if the customer chooses to ship (assuming all shipping charges) or bring the furniture in. Return shipping or delivery is not included in this warranty. I personally find it a bit grandiose to offer 30 or 40 year warranties on the actual timber used in outdoor furniture. I can only state fact: My furniture uses the top NHLA grade of one of the most time-honored and decay-resistant species known to man. I encourage you to read more about genuine mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), if you are interested. In the unlikely event that a component has a defect, please contact me regarding your problem before the return or removal of any components. E-mailed photos are a good method of accurately assessing an issue.
Q: What is the warranty for chairs? Chairs are warranted by the manufacturer for defects in materials and craftsmanship for a period of one year from the date of invoice. Chairs are not warranted against rust or mildew. I can assist in requests for warranty but the final decision will be that of the importer or manufacturer. Pastoral Furniture Co. is not responsible for any warranty decisions regarding chairs. If your product is defective in some way upon receipt, please contact me within three days. A photograph will be required in order to notify the manufacturer. A discount or a replacement piece are the actions most often taken.
Q: What is your return policy for tables? Please understand that the product I am offering is intended to be outdoors and exposed to the elements from the day you receive it. As such, there must be some limitations guiding returns. It simply is not reasonable for someone to accept my furniture, allow it to sit in the weather for a long period of time and then return it, expecting a full refund. I feel it is reasonable for me to expect an evaluation of my furniture within a period of 14 days from delivery, during which time you may call me to set up a return. If the reason for the return is for some substantial deficiency, I will accept it and refund your full purchase price plus the cost of the original shipping (but not the return shipping). If the reason for the return is discretionary (you simply decide you no longer want or need it), I will accept it, and refund the purchase price only. All refunding is contingent upon items being in their original condition. No return shipments will be accepted without prior authorization. If you do not contact me within 14 days of delivery, there will be no returns allowed.
Q: What is your return policy for chairs? These items are imported per order from France and cannot be returned except for defects in materials or workmanship. See chairs warranty section. |
Pastoral
Furniture Co. 997 Hauck Rd. Mechanicsburg, PA
17055 717.766.8305
e-mail:
brianober@pastoralfurniture.com
| Welcome | Tables | Chairs | Sundries | Purchase | Contact |
All wood furniture designs© 1999-2011 Pastoral Furniture Co.